Understanding the katana can be a study that truly lasts a lifetime, with even the top experts learning more every day. While authentic Japanese Katana can range from $3-$5K, the average collector is looking for that authentic look without the price tag. But how do you know what makes a good Katana? What factors should you consider and what are the most important features? Are you looking for an ornamental piece or a fully functioning sword? While the terminology and descriptions can be overwhelming to a new collector, we hope this basic Katana Buyer’s Guide begins to answer some of your katana questions. Here we cover each segment briefly, with more in-depth information to follow. And always check out our YouTube channel for the Katana playlist.
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The soul of the Samurai lied in his beautiful and deadly sword, with the Katana ultimately becoming known as the sword of the Samurai. The length of the Katana blade, or Nagasa, measures between 60-76cm (24”-30”) and has a total length, with the handle, of 100-110cm. The average weight ranges between 1.1-1.3kg (2-3lbs). Designed as a two-handed weapon, the katana replaced the original Tachi sword design. While Samurai warriors wore the tachi blade side down, the Katana is worn with the blade side up, enabling warriors to draw their swords and strike an enemy with a single motion.
Here we take a closer look at the katana blade, its main components, changes between the authentic and modern methods of forging, and more in an effort to expand your knowledge and give you a better understanding of the katana before you decide on the best sword to add to your collection.
Hardening of modern katana blades can occur in two different ways: Through Tempered (also known as Monotempered) and Differentially Hardened. Authentic Katana swords underwent differential hardening, but is there really a difference? Let’s take a closer look.
So which blade is best? It depends on what you are looking for. If we look at the HRC (Hardness Rockwell Cone), a differential hardened katana has an average HRC of 58-60 edge hardness and 38-40 on the spine while a monotempered katana scores in the low 50s. The higher the blade HRC, the more it can be sharpened and the longer it will hold that sharpness. This means that a differential katana will likely have a sharper blade that will stay sharper for longer while still retaining the softer spine that allows for extra shock absorption. Wielders of differentially-tempered katana must execute skillful and straight cuts when slicing through a target as notable torque of the blade or improperly aligned cuts can very well bend the blade of a differentially hardened katana. However, the monotempered still holds a sharp edge and is much easier to polish scuffs and scratches, and can be spring tempered to return straight, making it a good blade for beginners wishing to do a lot of test cutting.
Learn more about through-tempered vs. differentially hardened blades →
This Iron Tiger Forge – Mitsudomoe – T10 blade is crafted from differentially hardened and sharpened T10 steel. The tempering of the blade has left it with a very visible, wave-like hamon along its edge. The tip of the blade has a geometric Yokote and Chu-Kissaki tip.
This is also one of our differentially-tempered blades, the Musashi – Tactical Modern Katana
When the katana originated, steel was not the same as it is today, especially in Japan. Swordsmiths took days to create their tamahagane steel through a process of smelting iron sand and charcoal. While effective at making steel, this tamahagane had many impurities. To remove these impurities, swordsmiths manipulated the steel by heating, hammering, and folding the steel up to 16 times. While many still use this traditional method, today’s steel does not have those original impurities and the folding process is no longer necessary.
While many collectors still look for the authentic process and the appearance it creates when purchasing a katana, the folding process does not improve the hardness or performance and, in some cases, can actually weaken the blade if crafted by an inferior swordsmith. When properly and skillfully forged it adds historical and visual authenticity to the construction of the blade and may leave tell-tale ripple-like patterning throughout the blade that can be quite beautiful. We carry a number of quality-inspected folded steel katanas.
Learn more about plain vs. folded steel blades →
This is one of our Tamahagane Katanas, the BattleBlades – Sōdai Tamahagane Katana
A geometric yokote is a distinctive transition line that separates the body of the blade, or Ji, and the Kissaki, or the blade tip. While this tip transition line is aesthetically desirable, it also helps to reinforce the blade tip for effective thrusting. The clearer defined the geometric yokote is, the more effective it is at dissipating the blade and tip impact on a thrust. This is a rare feature, however, to find on mass-produced swords as it takes experienced polishing skills to achieve. Most production katana instead cross-polish the tip in a different direction from that of the blade to create the visual illusion of a geometric yokote.
Learn more about the geometric yokote →
The profile of a blade refers to how the blade tapers toward the edges. Blades with a more gradual taper work best for cutting, while those with a more acute taper work best for thrusting. Some common sword tapers include:
Learn more about geometric blade profiles →
This is one of the Katana’s that has a Geometric Yakote Tip, Balaur Arms – Clay Tempered T10 Shirasaya Katana
The Kissaki is the tip of the Japanese Katana and begins at the Geometric Yokote. There are a variety of different sizes and shapes available when it comes to the Kissaki, and we take a closer look at some different Kissaki and some common terms associated with this part of the Katana.
Learn more about different Kissaki variations→
Contact us to discuss your requirements of lamellars. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.
Bo-hi, also known as bohi, hi, blood groove, or fuller, is a groove in the blade, just underneath the spine, that helps reduce the weight of the katana. The addition of a bo-hi reduces the weight of a blade by 20-35%, without any real sacrifice to blade integrity or strength. In making the blade lighter, the bo-hi creates a faster blade and shifts the balance point closer to the person wielding the sword. However, the lighter the sword, the less powerful the cutting ability may be. For those choosing their katana for its cutting ability may opt with No-hi, while martial artists doing demonstrations may opt for the bo-hi that allows for more graceful movement.
Learn more about the bo-hi →
Niku translates to mean meat. In the terms of a katana blade, niku sharpening allows the blade to remain considerably thicker and more resistant while still allowing for a sharp cutting edge. Taking a closer look at a niku blade, you will see the edge has a wider angle, allowing it to withstand damage without cracking which was important for battle and dueling where contact with an opponent’s blade or armor could be expected. However, niku sharpening does slightly reduce the cutting ability. While authentic and historic katanas all sported niku sharpening, many modern katana enthusiasts competing in cutting opt for a flatter sharpening edge that provides a smooth cut that is optimized for slicing tatami for competition cutting.
Learn more about different niku shapes here→
The hamon is the tempering line created through the differential hardening process we described above. When they heat and quench the clay-covered blade, the edge cools faster than the spine. When this occurs, the steel in the hamon area turns into a crystalline structure called martensite. This creates a noticeable line on the blade which can be straight to wavy in appearance.
Unfortunately, with modern katanas, this forging practice takes great skill and has a high incidence of failure, meaning that differential hardened katanas cost more than their monotempered counterparts. A monotempered katana will not sport a natural hamon, however, skilled craftsmen can add a fake hamon to complete the authentic look. But how can you tell if a hamon is natural or not? The only way to test for a true hamon is to check the hardness of the edge and the spine. If they are the same, then the hamon is not real.
Learn more about the hamon →
This Balaur Arms – Kagutsuchi Straight Bladed Katana has a blade of forged T10 high carbon steel that is ablaze with a flame-like hamon of traditionally clay-tempered steel along its edge. The blade is lightened with a bo-hi groove which sacrifices little in durability for a great gain in agility. The straight blade of this Katana lends itself well to thrusting and cutting in equal measure and its enlarged O-Kissaki tip imbues it with even greater puncturing power when used in a thrust. The blade edge has “Niku” in its form to give the edge resilience against edge damage and a high-quality mirror polish to bring out the beauty of the steel and hamon to complete the blade.
The mei is the swordsmith’s signature on the blade. On a sword, the mei should always face outward when the sword is worn. In this case, you will find the Tachi sword has a signature on one side, while the katana, worn blade up, will have the mei on the opposing side. Mu mei refers to swords with no signature. In some cases, the mei included more than just the swordsmith’s signature and often included the province and the date of the production. A tameshi mei includes the sword’s sharpness results from a cutting test.
While many believe the blade is the most important part of the katana, the handle and how it attaches to the blade are also major and distinct components. The handle, or Tsuka, is the base of the sword and connects to the blade. Between the Tauka and the Nagasa, you have the fuchi, or hilt collar, the Tsuba, or hand guard, the Seppa, or the washers that tighten the fittings, and the Habaki, the wedge-shaped collar that keeps the sword from falling out of the Saya, or scabbard for the blade. Here we offer some insight to some common handle components.
The katana tsuka core comes from a hard wood cut into two pieces. Once cut, the designer carves the wood in a manner that allows the two pieces to come together, encircling the tang of the blade. At that point, the maker carves the wood into the desired handle shape. There are four basic tsuka shapes for the katana and these are:
This carved wood serves as the core of the katana tsuka and once created, one applies the samegawa and ito wrapping.
Samegawa, also referred to as samekawa, same, or samehada, is a wrap that goes around the wooden core of the tsuka. This wrap is typically stingray skin which features textured nodes. The larger nodes on the skin, referred to as Emperor nodes, are more desirable and its presence is the hallmark of a superior cut and grade of ray skin being used for the wrap. The purpose of the samegawa is to wrap and protect the wooden core, keep hands from sweating and slipping while holding the katana, and help the ito maintain its wrap and placement. While natural ray skin is the most desirable, synthetic replications can help reduce costs. The samegawa can either be a full wrap or you can use panels to save cost.
This BattleBlades – Nagi-gatana has genuine samegawa ray skin tsuka under the Hinerimaki-wrapped silk Ito and it is embellished with highly detailed fuchi and kashira as well as an antiqued brass tsuba. Custom-made brass habaki and glaive polearm menuki add the finishing touches to the outstanding koshirae.
While the Samegawa works to hold the ito cord that wraps the Tsuka in place, hishigami is another, just as important component. In fact, proper tsukamaki, or wrapping, cannot be done without hishigami. So, what is hishigami? Made typically from rice paper, hishigami is small, folded pieces of paper placed under the flat sections of the ito, before the twists, as it wraps the tsuka. It helps to hold the wrap in place, lifts the ito into the twists, and makes for a tighter overall wrap. The pieces of rice paper are folded into shapes that look like small houses, allowing them to sit flat under the flat ito while slightly lifting near the twist.
The art of wrapping the tsuka, known as tsukamaki, requires patience and attention to detail. We have already covered the use of the samegawa that helps to hold the wrap in place, as well as the hishigami that helps to create a tight and well-fitting wrap. Now we take a closer look at the different wrapping styles available for the ito wrap. These include basic traditional wraps, battle wraps, and the more extensive and specialty wraps available.
Menuki are a pair of small ornaments originally placed to cover the mekugi (the nail securing the blade to the tsuka. Over time, its placement became more ornamental in nature. The placement is one on each side of the handle. This placement allows the fingers of each hand to rest on the mekugi when holding the sword. However, the alternate configuration, known as gyakumenuki, positions the mekugi in the reverse position. This allows the menuki to rest in the palm of each hand. Placement varies by owner and depends on comfort.
This Dragon King – Fletching Katana has two arrowhead menuki that is woven beneath the ito cords.
We know this basic katana buyer’s guide is just a start. For more information on these elements, explore our Japanese Bladed Weapon Glossary.
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