Probably the best tractor I saw for slopes that was commonly available was a JD low profile 6000 series. I realize that's more tractor than you need but it'd be worth your while to get one of the 6000 series brochures from a JD dealer and see what they did.JD went with smaller diameter tires and redesigned the seat so the operator sat lower on the tractor. There were other changes that I don't recall. Look at the specs for the tractors you're interested in and see if the wheels have offset options. Tractor tire wheels can be mounted to either minimize or maximize the side to side measurement. Some wheel hubs can be mounted four ways for different spreads. I'd be interested in wheel options first and the tires second. You may find that JD/Kubota doesn't offer the wheels you want but you can work with the dealer and get the wheels and tires you need included in the package. Ballast in the tires will help but I'd check with the dealer about foam filling the tires. The drivetrains may not have been designed for the extra stress. If they start muttering "you'll void the warranty" that tells you something about the tractor you're considering. It's my opinion you're better off buying from a dealer that carries the large ag tractors rather than a dealer that's strictly lawn and garden. In my opinion they'll be more knowledgeable about the tire, wheel and ballast options you need.For side slopes you definitely want ags but Michelin has a high speed ag tread that offers more depth of tread than most. Dual rear tires are another option but before you buy the tractor see if Unverferth makes a kit that will allow you to add duals on that tractor. Part of buying a tractor is to not get locked into a situation you can't buy something to fix later. Most folks buying a tractor don't have an unlimited budget for everything up front. That's why it's important to know what you can get for the tractor before you own the tractor.
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I have an 886 I love as a chore and hay tractor. It might be bigger than you want but you mentioned the 86 series. It has a dry clutch that is assisted. You can push it in or have it hold when the time is off, it's just harder. It does have wet brakes and full hydrostatic steering. Those go away with no engine, but a diesel isn't likely to stall for the reason you had with yours. They usually run badly before a filter is plugged enough to shut her down. I use an old Farmall M for grinding feed. It has mechanical brakes. I wouldn't want to trust them on hilly anything with something behind me. I've never seen mechanical brakes that were as good as hydraulic. They may be out there, but they aren't on this farm.
I just mowed, raked, and baled a new property - one time thing for surveyers. It was white knuckle steep. The kind where you have to brace yourself in the cab to stay in the seat. I have the tires on the 886 set wide and filled. Even with the cab on it the center of gravity vertically is 40 inches so it is below me a ways. Check with the Nebraska tests to find out the center of gravity on one you are considering.
I'm a red guy at heart but run green for tillage. I like both. Just find one that makes you comfortable, set it wide and weight it down so you don't lose traction.
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