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When it comes to putting things on my bike or in my pockets, I'm a minimalist. For years I've carried just CO2 on my rides and hoped for the best, or cheekily relied on others for a pump on long rides.
However, if you're not racing, CO2 is wasteful and carries an element of risk. Will it work as intended? Have you accidentally pinched that tube you're about to fill? Are you about to give yourself a freeze burn? How will it react with your tubeless sealant? And what if you flat again? A pump saves panic.
However, almost every time I've used a mini-pump I'm left painfully aware of how inadequate some of them are. Because of that, I wanted to know which ones are worth carrying on each and every ride, and which should be avoided.
This is the most physically painful test I've done to date (but I've now got arms like The Rock as a result), and while the majority of mini pumps tested put the desired amount of air into the tyre, some took a significant and tiring effort to do so. Some were a fiddle, while others simply rattled consistently when not in use. And a select few, by comparison, were almost a joy to use. And while I'm still yet to find perfection after having tested 45 well-respected mini pumps, I'll happily settle for a few of the better options.
This article goes in reverse order. First, it's the winners, followed by information on the selection criteria, the testing protocol, features to seek, and a gallery with size comparisons and other useful images. Let's jump into it.
It may be the most expensive on test (US$120 / AU$211), but the Silca Tattico Bluetooth is also the best. It feels impressively high quality in hand, and the knurled aluminium surfaces help to reduce pumping effort. The pump uses a self-contained hose that works with both valve types, and the locking-lever design means there's no risk of unwinding a valve core.
Inside hides Silca's cup seal instead of more basic o-rings ' meaning the pump shows no signs of air loss once hot. The volume is decent but is nicely balanced to provide an easy action at higher pressures. At 161g it's at the heavier end, but its easily forgiven once you consider the external and internal sealing, rock-solid valve head and 100% rattle-free design.
Additionally, it's the only pump tested that offers a truly accurate pressure gauge. It's the same system as the Silca Viaggio, and requires syncing to a smartphone app. From there you get 100% accuracy and easy reading that even the best floor pumps would be jealous of. It's this feature that also makes the Tattico Bluetooth a great travel companion.
At less than half the price, the regular Tattico (not submitted for review) is well worth consideration ' especially if you don't want the Bluetooth gauge or associated price.
Far cheaper than the Silca, it was Birzman's now-discontinued Velocity Apogee RG pump that initially finished in second place. At the close of testing, Birzman submitted a handful of newer, actually available pumps, and as it turned out, the even simpler and cheaper Birzman Scope Apogee was even better in many ways. I'm a fan of Birzman's Apogee valve head, something that installs onto Presta valves securely with a single turn. To release, just pull back on the collar ' like the Silca, it's another pump that can't accidentally unwind valve cores.
The rubber-covered handles make it comfortable to use, and it's one of the lighter action pumps on test ' even a 50kg tester could get a tyre to 80psi. It's a good balance of weight and size, and is reasonably well sealed from the elements. All that said, this pump offers no hose attachment, and so care is needed when getting up to full pressure ' thankfully it's fairly efficient.
Lezyne has long been a popular go-to, but hard pumping and loud rattles across a number of models had me underwhelmed. The Road Drive (size large) is the clear exception to that, and while it's the closest thing to a frame pump tested (in terms of size), it's also lovely to use.
The threaded valve head is notorious for unthreading valve cores but thankfully Lezyne now includes a tightening tool with the pump. It may be a little slower to use in that you have to thread the hose into the pump, but this model was the most efficient tested (117 strokes to 80psi), it's rattle-free, and both the pump and included alloy mount are built to last.
This is my pick for the best value road pump (US$25 / AU$34). Lifeline is the house brand of the Wiggle/ChainReactionCycles/Bike24 empire, and the Performance Road is a surprisingly good pump given the low price and weight. The self-contained hose locks onto both valve types, while the telescoping design offers a surprising amount of volume for efficient pumping.
The design does have more moving parts than most, so just beware that long-term durability may be a concern. Similarly, this gets hard to use above 80psi.
Blackburn submitted a number of pumps that had me impressed, but the Core Slim kept it simple and fuss-free. This is one model that will surely last. The threaded Presta-only head sits on a self-contained hose, and the pump is given external sealing to keep it free from contamination and rattles.
I really like the simplicity and clean lines of this pump, but do beware that it's not the most efficient for its size, the thin handles can be a little slick at pressure, and the valve design will unwind removable valve cores ' thankfully a valve core tool is contained at the bottom of the pump.
This one is comparable to the Blackburn Core Slim, but adds an easily controlled CO2 head to the design. The addition of the CO2 means the pump isn't quite as efficient in volume, and there is a minor rattle from the head. The included mount holds a CO2 canister on the opposite side. Still, if you want CO2 and an effective road pump, this is the best I've found.
Birzman's Sheath Apogee is quite similar to Core Co2'Fer, but with its larger form factor comes a more efficient volume and the clever Apogee head. If the seal between the Apogee head and Co2 inflator on my sample didn't suffer a slow leak, then this pump would likely have won the category. While that leak didn't make a huge difference to the function of the pump, it does worry me for long-term durability. If you're willing to take the risk in the hope you'll have better luck, then there's a lot of good going for this pump.
Alternatively, the miniFumpa is an option for fast inflation. This has been reviewed in-depth seperately.
Birzman's Mini Apogee is the smallest road pump tested and is perfect for the person who rarely gets flats and wants a pump stashed in a saddle bag or jersey pocket. It's surprisingly efficient for its size, but do be aware that its tiny head and smooth handle makes it tiring to use.
The Silca Pocket Impero is the nicest quality pump on test and will last for generations to come. It's super easy to use, but I didn't love the rubber sleeve that would slide down into the way during use, and the lack of mount isn't for everyone.
Zefal Air Profil FC03 and Bontrager Air Support HP Pro are both fine choices, but each can unscrew presta valve cores and they don't offer any tools or features to prevent that from happening.
The Lezyne Pressure Drive (Medium) is really good, but suffers a severe rattle from the hose inside the barrel. You can fix it with the right-sized O-ring, but you shouldn't need to. The provided mount is a little cheesy, and can cause the pump to rattle against the frame. And lastly, it's super-efficient in volume, but not easy at higher pressures.
The Birzman Infinite Apogee Road fits into the same category as the Lezyne above, and it's a great pump except for the obnoxious rattle caused by the removable hose.
For absolute low cost and simplicity, the Park Tool PMP-3.2 did everything it needed to and nothing more. It's a great budget option for rare use.
The Topeak RaceRocket and Blackburn AirStik 2Stage should be considered if you're looking for pumps that are good for both road and mountain bike (see lower down).
Also tested: Fabric R150 Road, crankbrothers Klic HP, Lezyne HP Drive (Small), Lezyne Pressure Drive CFH, PRO Performance HP, SKS Airboy, SKS Injex Control, SKS Injex T Zoom, Topeak Roadie DA, Zefal Air Profil Micro, Birzman Velocity Apogee RG (discontinued).
(Note: Pumps listed below with a '**' failed to reach the 80psi test pressure.)
Model Price Weight (g) Length Strokes to 80psi Valve type Flexible hose Co2 capability Gauge Does it rattle? Birzman Velocity-Apogee RG (Discontinued) US$40 / AU$70 117 222mm 214 Both Yes No Yes Minor Birzman Sheath Apogee US$50 / AU$TBC 122 196mm 271 Both Yes Yes No Minor Birzman Infinite Apogee Road US$32 / AU$60 140 254mm 196 Both Yes No No Yes Birzman Scope Apogee US$30 / AU$50 105 219mm 208 Both No No No No Birzman Mini Apogee US$25 / AU$45 79 138mm 305 Both No No No Yes Blackburn AirStik 2Stage US$25 / AU$45 84 180mm 310 Presta only No No No Minor Blackburn Core Co2'Fer US$45 / AU$65 101 193mm 314 Presta only Yes Yes No Minor Blackburn Core Slim US$35 / AU$55 106 250mm 281 Presta only Yes No No No Bontrager Air Support HP Pro US$45 / AU$50 104 191mm 260 Preata only Yes No No Minor crankbrothers Klic HP Gauge US$47 / AU$80 143 263mm 223 Both Yes Yes Yes Yes Fabric R150 Road US$TBC / AU$60 99 196mm 373 Both Yes No No Minor Fumpa Mini US$139 / AU$189 182 68mm 40 seconds Presta only No No No No Lezyne HP Drive (Small) US$30 / AU$45 83 190mm 174 Both Yes No No Yes Lezyne Pressure Drive (Medium) US$50 / AU$65 107 240mm 135 Both Yes No No Yes Lezyne Pressure Drive CFH US$50 / AU$75 106 194mm 192 Both Yes Yes No Yes Lezyne Road Drive (Large) US$50 / AU$65 128 295mm 117 Preta only Yes No No No Lifeline Performance Road US$25 / AU$34 105 182mm 190 Both Yes No No No OneUp EDC Pump (100cc)** US$59 / AU$86 163 257mm 56 (60psi) Presta only No Yes No No Park Tool PMP-3.2 US$18 / AU$40 106 200mm 304 Both No No No No PRO Performance HP US$N/A / AU$40 90 191mm 334 Both Yes No No No Silca Impero Ultimate (frame pump) US$165 / AU$267 286 500mm 62 Presta only No No No No Silca Pocket Impero US$120 / AU$202 150 208mm 209 Presta only No No No No Silca Tattico Bluetooth US$120 / AU$211 161 245mm 193 Both Yes No Yes* No SKS Airboy** US$30 / AU$43 61 173mm 300+ (Leaked) Presta only No No No Minor SKS Injex Control US$40 / AU$57 215 284mm 196 Both No No Yes Yes SKS Injex T Zoom US$30 / AU$45 180 263mm 247 Both No No No Yes Specialized Airtool Road Mini** US$25 / AU$35 61 164mm 152 (to 55psi) Presta only No No No No Topeak RaceRocket US$33 / AU$55 94 180mm 180 Both Yes No No No Topeak Roadie DA** US$20 / AU$40 96 183mm 250 (75psi) Presta only No No No Yes Zefal Air Profil FC03 US$50 / AU$70 103 184mm 285 Both Yes No No No Zefal Air Profil Micro US$20 / AU$30 92 163mm 344 Both No No No NoThis pump is genius. It's the only pump in this test that goes beyond traditional inflation needs, and yet, it's one of the best pumps, too. The machined aluminium construction gives it a quality feel and plenty of grip in hand. The presta-only press-fit head is no-fuss, and the pump will fill a tyre before you start wishing it had a hose attachment. That presta-only head can also be removed and used as a CO2 inflator.
But that's hardly the only trick here. OneUp has designed its pumps to work with its EDC tools (US$59) that are best known for stashing inside a fork steerer. Instead, you can store the customisable tools inside your pump barrel. My 100cc sample offers space for a multi-tool, chain breaker, tyre lever, chain masterlink and C02 canister. And despite all of that, it's rattle free.
Just beware: this pump is made for mountain biking, and while gravel riders can benefit from it too, it will get fussy if pushed near 50psi.
Where OneUp's pump has MacGyver himself stashed within it, the Topeak RaceRocket MT is no-fuss, affordable and just as pleasant to use. The aluminium construction is given a rubber grip for comfortable use, while the self-contained hose will work with both valve types.
The pump defies its size and weight with efficient pumping, and can handle higher gravel pressures too. A valve-core tool is provided at the bottom to prevent the threaded hose from causing (likely) mischief.
Designed for stashing in a pack or pocket, this tiny pump comes with a tyre lever and plastic frame to wrap an inner tube around. The 101g pump hides a push-on head that locks onto the valve with a twist of the barrel. From there, its volume defies its size.
While it's not the most comfortable pump to use, if you can't remember the last time you flatted, then this pump is perfect for stashing away with that long-expired Clif bar.
Between the rubber grips, flexible hose and secure-locking valve, this is the most comfortable pump on test. Once learnt, the Apogee valve head works easily with both valve types, there's no risk of pressure loss on removal and it won't unwind a presta valve in the process.
There's a pressure gauge that sits inline of the hose, and while it works, it would be far better if the scale was tailored towards MTB pressures and not road. It's only good to get you within 5psi of your desired pressure. Additionally, a slight rattle from the valve head is what holds this pump back from scoring higher.
The medium-sized Lezyne Alloy Drive is quite comparable to the Topeak RaceRocket MT. It offers a proven aluminium construction and an equal third-best output efficiency. Lezyne has solved the issue of unwinding valve cores by integrating a core tightening tool into the hose, and the pressure-release button should help, too.
However, it suffers from an obnoxious rattle, the mount is super flexy and the pump gets tough to use once above 30psi.
While Silca's Tattico Bluetooth is far from efficient for higher volume tyres, the Bluetooth pressure gauge is perfect if you want to fine-tune your exact pressure when out on the trail. Its sealing and build quality is certainly up to off-road us, too.
The Topeak Mountain TT is one of the easiest high-volume pumps to use at pressures above 45psi. The chunky shape and similarly efficient volume to the RaceRocket MT is why this pump didn't make the top ranks.
Zefal's Z Cross XL has a polarising (cheap) appearance but is extremely comfortable to hold and its telescoping design makes it efficient in use (equal to the Lezyne Alloy Drive, but with less force required). After the Topeak Mountain TT, this is the second-best at higher pressures (above 45psi). It is, however, quite a large pump.
For absolute simplicity and low cost, the Park Tool PMP-4.2 will always put air where it needs to go. It'd be nice to see an external seal added to the head, but otherwise, it does what it needs to.
The most efficient on test was Topeak's Mountain DA. However, the Dual-Action design means you're pushing and pulling with resistance, which makes it extremely tiring to use. It's the perfect example of a pump with higher volume (and requiring fewer strokes) still being more tiring to use.
The Topeak RaceRocket and Blackburn AirStik 2Stage should be considered if you're looking for pumps that are good for both road and mountain bike (see lower down).
Also tested: SKS Airboy XL, SKS Injex Control, SKS Injex T-Zoom, crankbrothers Klic HV, Fabric MilliBar MTB, Lezyne Sport Drive HV, Lifeline Performance MTB, PRO Performance HV, Specialized AirTool Big Bore.
Model Price Weight Length Strokes to 30psi Strokes to 35psi Valve type Flexible hose CO2 capability? Gauge Birzman Velocity-Apogee MG US$40 / AU$70 145 224mm 150 175 Both Yes No Yes Blackburn AirStik 2Stage US$25 / AU$45 84 180mm 182 211 Presta only No No No crankbrothers Klic HV Gauge US$47 / AU$80 150 263mm 170 197 Both Yes Yes Yes Fabric MilliBar MTB US$TBC / AU$60 234 232mm 103 120 Both Yes No No Fumpa Mini US$139 / AU$189 182 68mm 60 seconds 70 seconds Presta only No No No Lezyne Alloy Drive (Medium) US$50 / AU$65 135 233mm 105 124 Both Yes No No Lezyne Sport Drive HV US$20 / AU$30 97 190mm 180 206 Both Yes No No Lifeline Performance MTB US$25 / AU$34 118 182mm 171 198 Both Yes No No OneUp EDC Pump (100cc) US$59 / AU$86 163 257mm 109 124 Presta only No Yes No Park Tool PMP-4.2 US$19 / AU$33 132 264mm 165 191 Both No No No PRO Performance HV US$N/A / AU$40 101 210mm 329 383 Both Yes No No Silca Tattico Bluetooth US$120 / AU$211 161 245mm 255 295 Both Yes No Yes* SKS Airboy XL US$30 / AU$45 90 180mm 226 264 Both No No No SKS Injex Control US$40 / AU$57 215 284mm 164 192 Both No No Yes SKS Injex T Zoom US$30 / AU$45 180 263mm 175 203 Both No No No Specialized AirTool Big Bore US$45 / AU$50 155 202mm 107 124 Both Yes No No Specialized AirTool MTB Mini US$25 / AU$35 101 165mm 170 198 Both No No No Topeak Mountain DA US$22 / AU$40 128 220mm 93 108 Both No No No Topeak Mountain TT US$33 / AU$55 196 220mm 125 151 Both No No No Topeak RaceRocket US$33 / AU$55 94 180mm 242 281 Both Yes No No Topeak RaceRocket MT US$40 / AU$70 126 201mm 132 152 Both Yes No No Zefal Z Cross XL US$35 / AU$50 182 233mm 105 121 Both No No NoThis category is a little tricky as all road pumps can be used for mountain bike, and a small handful of mountain bike pumps will get you to rideable road pressure. These two pumps are claimed to be good for double duty, and while they're both a jack-of-all-trades (master of none), they're worth considering if you want one pump for all bikes.
This is effectively a higher-pressure version of the RaceRocket MT pump and can, therefore, hit a higher pressure at the cost of efficiency. For the road, it's one of the more efficient pumps tested, although it also requires significant force when near or over 80psi. Off-road it's not terrible, but will take almost double the strokes of more dedicated pumps.
It's rattle-free and built to last but the rubber grip did begin to slide at road pressures. You'll want to use the included valve core tightening tool to prevent the threaded valve head from pulling your valve core.
The Blackburn AirStik 2Stage is another super compact option that can perform double-duty. It can be switched between a high-volume and high-pressure setting, with the latter needed after about 40psi. Where the Topeak RaceRocket is perhaps better for road, this one is better at off-road volume/pressures.
It's an impressively compact pump that has an air volume that defies its size, but it does carry compromises. Namely the tiny press-on (presta-only) head quickly becomes uncomfortable to keep stable, and there is a very slight rattle heard.
Also worth considering in this category is the miniFumpa, however, being electric it carries its own compromises.
It's surprising how quickly this test grew to include 45 mini pumps. And that's only scraping the surface of the hundreds and hundreds of models on the market.
While I've inevitably left a few out, my first selection criteria was to include all the largest and most globally available mini pump brands. From there, I looked at the best-selling options across leading online stores, models that were highly reviewed by other publications, and I spoke to various brick and mortar stores, too.
With the brands selected, I asked them to supply their most popular and favourite mini pumps that balanced carrying size, weight and use. Seeking the 'best' price wasn't a factor, but despite that, and somewhat surprisingly, no brand provided a carbon fibre version (Topeak and Lezyne offer such things, among others). Often, my request was a simple one: 'send the pumps your own staff would choose to carry on a ride'.
I requested their favoured samples for both road and mountain bike ' or high volume and high pressure (I'll come back to this). Some brands, with enormous and overwhelming ranges, sent a number of pumps, and wanted to send even more. Others provided just one or two samples. And that's how I got to the 45 tested samples.
Amongst all of this, keep in mind that there are only two major pump manufacturers in Asia, and the bulk of the pumps tested show similarities that reveal they're manufactured by one or the other. Given this, if you see another brand of pump on the market that looks and measures the same as one tested here, it's highly likely it is closely comparable. And for this reason, this test only features a few generic brands.
Your choice in mini pump should depend on your desired riding style. The design criteria for pumping a 29in or 650B 2.4in tyre is quite different to getting a 700x23c tyre to a safe pressure. Take a garden hose for example ' if you want to fill a bucket you'd put the nozzle on the widest setting to get the most water (volume) in the shortest time; whereas if you wanted to create pressure, you'd reduce the volume to restrict the water to be pushed out a smaller opening.
Pumps designed for road use are optimised for higher pressures, and for a given size, will produce less volume per stroke.
For more Gravel Pump Supplierinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.
On the flip side, pumps designed for mountain bike or gravel tyres are designed to produce a higher air volume but only need to achieve relatively low pressures. These are optimised to reduce the number of strokes taken, but can quickly become highly inefficient (you become the required force) at producing pressure.
And there are dual-purpose pumps that claim to cover both high-volume and high-pressure needs. Some achieve this with clever volume capacity switches, while others attempt to find a happy medium in the output. However, as my testing proved, there is always a compromise.
In my testing, I found that claimed maximum pump pressure and volume per stroke don't mean much. Rather, the maximum claimed pressure is what the pump seals can handle, not what you can push. In many cases, high volume pumps simply become impossible to use at higher pressures, while high-pressure pumps are painfully inefficient at producing large volumes of air.
Think about what your pressure and volume needs are. If your road bike has 30c tubeless tyres that you're running under 50psi, then a high volume (mountain bike) pump with an easier stroke force may be the best choice. Likewise, if you run 70psi on your gravel bike, then certainly consider a high-pressure (road) pump.
And if you must have one pump to cover your mountain bike and high-pressure road needs, then get either a dual purpose pump or a high-pressure pump (ideally one with an efficient volume). The latter will be slower and more tiring to use on the mountain bike, but it'll eventually do the job.
This test was run over a number of months, with the field being narrowed down early on based on initial volume efficiency, stroke force, ease of use and severity of rattles. Much of this testing used a calibrated inline digital pressure gauge assembled by Kappius components. This allows for live pressure testing and reduced the number of testing variables.
High-volume mountain and gravel pumps were tested with a 650x47mm (27.5×1.9in) Panaracer GravelKing tyre (and tube) on a Hunt Adventure Carbon rim (24mm inner width) ' inflated to 35psi as an average pressure for gravel tyres. The same wheel setup was also measured at 30psi for the mountain bike-specific test. Road-focussed high-pressure pumps were tested with a Schwalbe Durano 700x25c clincher tyre on a Fulcrum Racing 5 rim (15.25mm).
The number of full strokes (top out at top, bottom out at bottom) required to go from zero to the required psi were counted. And the testing method was cross-referenced and double checked with various pumps, numerous times, to ensure consistency and repeatability of the process. My method differs from the more common test method of measuring the pressure at 200 strokes, mainly because the custom gauge I used allowed for such a method without risk of pressure loss.
Force of stroke was measured subjectively based on how much of a strain it was to achieve a single stroke past the tested pressure. A smaller tester (50kg) also provided a baseline for these numbers, where pumps that I found difficult at the final tested pressure were literally impossible for them to use ' and similarly, with those same pumps, they were unable to get anywhere near the testing pressure.
I hate rattles. Most mini-pumps will be attached beneath the bottle cage and left on the bike full-time, and in my experience as a mechanic, it's quite common for people to complain about a rattle in their bike that can be traced to the pump. So if the pump noticeably rattled once strapped into its mount, it was out of contention. This ruled out a few otherwise lovely pumps, such as the crankbrothers Klic HP.
Even the best mini pumps will get warm to touch by the time you're at your desired pressure, and it's not that rare to hear the occasional whisp of air sneaking past the internal shaft seals once the pump is hot and under pressure. The inline gauge allowed me to see some pumps suffer in this regard, while more premium versions, such as those from Silca, purposefully address this issue in the materials used.
Ease of use is largely subjective and was based on how intuitive the pump's usage was, how quick it was to start using, general ease of use at the valve attachment, and how comfortable it was during use. Pumps that caused arm cramps to keep them on the valve, unwound valves without a solution, or those with pinch points and/or slippery handles didn't fare so well here.
There are many little details that make a workable pump, a good pump.
Perhaps most obvious are the ergonomics and materials used in order to make the pumping experience easier, especially given you'll likely end up using the pump with wet or sweaty hands. Pumps with perfectly smooth finishes and no shape aren't ideal here, and you'll end up using more energy just to hold on.
Do you have bikes with both Schraeder and Presta valves? Many readers will be able to get away with a presta-only pump, but most pumps on the market can do both. Some will adjust to the different valve types automatically, others require you to flip a threaded chuck, and many still require you to open the valve head and flip the valve pin and rubber gasket.
It's amazing to see how many mini pumps have moved the pump head to the end of a hose, all but solving the risk of breaking a valve as you lever it back and forth while pumping. Rather, a pump that uses a hose allows for more negligent pumping and is typically easier to use as a result.
Still, the hose is an added feature that can impact on volume, weight and size. Additionally, threaded hose designs introduce the potential for unwinding valve cores, such as those found on tubeless valves and many European tubes. As a result of this, it's increasingly common to find hose-equipped pumps supplied with a valve core tool. Simply make sure your valve cores are tight and you're unlikely to experience issues.
If you're planning on keeping the pump on your bike, then look for one with weather sealing at the head and barrel. Keeping the valve head free of dirt and water will ensure it works for many years to come, while a seal on the barrel isn't as common, it is often used to prevent rattles.
Speaking of keeping the pump on the bike, you'll need a mount for that. The Silca Pocket Impero, Birzman Mini Apogee and Fumpa Mini (electric) were the only pumps on test to not include a mount for carrying the pump on the bike. All other pumps offer comparable mounts to be attached to standard bidon cage bosses, although some are certainly better than others.
A mini pump should be viewed as an emergency-only item, and for that, a press of the tyre to feel that it's firm should be all you need to continue your ride. Still, pressure gauges on mini pumps are a popular selling feature. Generally speaking the gauges are so small that, unless we're talking about digital gauges, they're almost impossible to get an accurate and consistent reading from. In many cases, the gauges were only good for getting to the nearest 10psi.
Do you view the mini pump as a back-up to your CO2? If that's the case, then it may make sense to get a pump that doubles for CO2 duty. Many of these are surprisingly good ' and often better than a lot of CO2 chucks people carry ' plus they're harder to lose.
Finally, there are the extras. A number of pumps with threaded hoses offer a valve core tool ' simply solving a problem they create. Then there's the clever pump from OneUp which hides an entire tool kit and puncture repair within itself; or the pump from Specialized which is tiny and can be wrapped in one with an innertube and tyre lever.
Given all of this, what's your pick? Mini pump, CO2, frame pump, Uber or support car? What have you had great success with?
Tires are the only point of contact with the ground, making all the difference between breaking your personal record or just breaking your nose. This makes choosing the right gravel tires vital, but the options are as varied as gravel riding itself. We compared the most exciting models, and we'll tell you what to look for.
The world of gravel bikes is alive and constantly evolving. Gravel racing with super-fast, aerodynamically optimised bikes is no longer a rarity. And we're increasingly seeing trends from the road segment being adopted by gravel riders. At the other end of the gravel spectrum, the bikes are becoming more and more like mountain bikes ' with suspension forks, dropper posts, and mullet drivetrains almost commonplace. Bikes like the Specialized Diverge STR even feature rear suspension. Other models such as YT SZEPTER and Mondraker Dusty have been specially developed for off-road use. Between these two extremes, however, gravel bikes still remain the go-to choice for many adventure seekers and commuters.
So it's clear that not all gravel is the same. This also applies to the tires. Different use cases, surfaces, and preferences make the requirements for gravel tires so diverse that a conventional tire group test with a single test winner wouldn't suffice. Therefore, we didn't want to have just one recommended pick. Instead, we'll give you the tools to find the perfect gravel tires for you. We reviewed 20 of the most exciting gravel tires and subjected them to the ultimate test in an elaborate laboratory setup, and on our very own test track.
Gravel tires are unique. They can't be classified as knobby mountain bike tires, nor are they anything like classic road bike tires. They're somewhere in between, catering to unique demands and having their own characteristic features. There is a wide variety of tire dimensions, treads, and even rubber compounds.
In this colourful world of gravel, there's not one perfect do-it-all set of tires for everyone, but every type of rider will find their perfect tires. The gravel segment is extremely diverse, and choosing the right tires depends on a few crucial factors, which need to be weighted differently depending on your needs.
Traction ' Traction plays a crucial role. It's not just important on the trail, but can also decide between setting a new record or sampling the ground. Having the right tread pattern that's suitable for the terrain ensures optimum traction.
Breaking distance ' The later you brake, the faster you'll be. However, this is a skill you need to practise. That said, the more grip your tires provide, the quicker you can stop. This can increase your confidence enormously, especially on unfamiliar gravel descents.
Rolling resistance ' Long day in the saddle or racing against the clock? Efficient tires can save valuable watts. Besides the tread pattern, the rubber compound and, above all, the tire pressure also play a role in this.
Puncture protection ' Patching, pumping, or having a beer? Puncture protection prevents involuntary stops in rough terrain, so you can keep going for longer.
While these facts aren't everything, because cycling is primarily about experiencing emotions, the tires shouldn't slow you down! And since the use cases and riders are as individual as the tires themselves, we've conducted this tire group test for all gravel enthusiasts: for those with a need for speed and KOMs; for those who plan long route and are in search of adventure; and, of course, for those who just want to have fun.
A meaningful tire test needs the right test field. The question is, what characterises gravel today, and what does the future hold? Gravel tires must be tubeless ' there's no place for tubes in gravel riding. Tubeless and wide tires allow you to run lower pressures, they offer more comfort, traction, greater efficiency, and improved puncture protection. TPU tubes can keep up in terms of efficiency, but a tubeless setup outperforms them in all other respects. The gravel future is tubeless!
700c is the norm. Initial experiments with 650b and fat MTB tires have given way to the occasional gravel bike with 29' tires. But we now have enough gravel specific 700c tires on the market that there's no reason to rely on MTB sizes. For the sake of comparability, all the tires on test are 40 mm wide, or whatever width is closest to it if the tire in question is not available in 40 mm.
40 mm wide tires are the perfect compromise between a wide off-road and a skinny race setup. Depending on the intended use, however, it's up to you to choose the most appropriate width.
Our group test covers all gravel categories, including the fastest and the grippiest tires, the best puncture protection, and the craziest tread pattern. All relevant tires models and brands are represented in our in-depth look at 20 tires from 9 brands in the laboratory. For our real-world tests, we rode the tires on a demanding test track through the Black Forest in all kinds of conditions, from dry to drenched. We pushed the tires to their limits, resulting in the occasional tubeless disaster, and became professionals in tire repairs and replacements in the process.
*1 measured at 2.5 bar
*2 test rim: ZIPP 303s 622 x 20.3C (rim height 45,32 mm)
Choosing the right tires doesn't start in the shop or on the internet, but at home and on the bike. There are some pivotal questions that only you can answer, determining your own requirements, and thus the perfect tire choice.
What must your tires be capable of? Where and how do you ride your bike, and where should it perform particularly well? Be realistic when answering these questions! Wishful thinking can be fun, but it certainly doesn't help you find the perfect gravel tires. Besides your personal requirements, there are a few boxes that all tires should tick. Good looks, puncture protection, and easy installation simply make riding your bike more fun and provide longer-lasting enjoyment.
How fast do you ride and how important is speed to you? This determines how efficient the tires should be. Efficient tires roll faster, save power at constant speed, and make accelerating easier. This is usually achieved by a faster rolling, less aggressive tread, and a harder rubber compound. As a result, however, the tires don't offer as much traction on loose and damp surfaces. Because gravel riding doesn't take place on uniform terrain, the fastest gravel tire on asphalt won't necessarily be the best on gravel. Therefore, pure rolling speed isn't everything: Grip and compliance can also be decisive in gravel racing. But even if speed isn't your number one goal, rolling efficiency shouldn't be underestimated. In our test field, we found a difference of 10.6 watts between the fastest and the slowest model. So, with the right set of tires, you can save up to 21.2 watts.
How important is riding comfort to you? A lot of gravel bikes leave it solely up to the tires to generate comfort and compliance. However, this shouldn't be the tires' primary task ' the frame itself, or damping elements can generate comfort without any unwanted side effects. That said, if the tires are the only way you can achieve more comfort and vibration damping affordably, the wider the tires, the lower you can run the tire pressures, the more comfort the tires will offer. However, this usually comes at the cost of efficiency, so you must choose the width and tire pressure carefully.
What kind of gravel do you prefer? On which terrain do you ride and, above all, where should the bike perform really well? Is the road leading to the woods just a means to an end, or is it part of the experience? And is real gravel even part of your usual gravel route? Depending on where you ride, the requirements of the tread change, and it is important to choose wisely here. Unlike MTB or road tires, gravel tires must perform well on a variety of surfaces. There are all-rounders that perform relatively well everywhere, and then there are specialists that excel in a specific type of terrain, but often only there.
How important is puncture protection to you? Sure, nobody likes mending tires, but puncture-proof tires are usually heavier and less efficient due to the use of thicker casings. This often makes puncture protection less relevant for efficiency-oriented riders, but even if a fast rolling tire can save you a few seconds, a flat tire can cost minutes. At the same time, you must also think about what the tires will have to deal with: sharp rocks and gravel, or poorly maintained cycle paths strewn with shards of glass? Some tires are specially designed for puncture protection, and off-road-oriented tires typically offer more protection, simply because of the deeper tread. Puncture protection also includes the reliability of the tire. Beautiful, fast, and handmade open-tubular tires are cool and set the bike apart, but what's the point if you need to reinflate them every 200 km?
Ride feel is probably one of the simplest and often underestimated traits. Even if it only emerges during real world tests, there are some clues in the design. The transition between shoulder knobs and central tread is particularly important. A smooth centre tread and big shoulder knobs, like on the Schwalbe G-One RS or Vittoria Terreno Dry, combine efficient rolling with plenty of cornering grip. As a result, the tire often has a more square profile, which can lead to less agile handling, and a noticeable transition when leaning the bike over into a corner. Rounder tires with a uniform tread pattern are often easier to lean into a corner and offer consistent grip. The shape of the tire ultimately depends not just on the tread pattern, but also on the rim width in relation to the tire.
Finally, the price also matters. Tires are subject to wear and tear, and must be replaced regularly. Are the most expensive tires worth their price? How much money do you want to spend on tires? And how much do you want to experiment with tires? Tires are amongst the most important components on a bike and have a direct influence on performance, so there are few bike components that can make such a big difference, whether negative or positive. So keep your eyes open when choosing your tires!
Unfortunately, choosing the right tires isn't always as easy as we would like. And the brands often don't make it any easier for us to choose. They all use different names for the same technologies, rubber compounds, and casings to stand out from the crowd of gravel tires, making things all the more confusing for the end user. Added to that are the limits of different bikes and components. But we'll tell you everything you should consider, wading through the manufacturer's specifications and their marketing promises to provide you with the ultimate buyer's guide to the perfect gravel tires.
The first and most important question should be: how wide is my bike's tire clearance? The maximum tire width differs greatly between bikes ' not every gravel bike can accommodate up to 50 mm tires. In addition, the tire width for road and all-road bikes is measured without the tread. Moreover, many tires pack up with mud and clay in wet conditions, which can quickly rub against the frame if you don't have enough extra clearance. So, if you don't want to take any risks, stick to the bike's specs, and if you want to ride UNBOUND Gravel, go two sizes smaller ' .
Tire size
650b, the MTB tire size of past generations, is also no longer relevant on gravel bikes, and has clearly become a niche product. Meanwhile, the 29' MTB size has become all the rage on gravel bikes. Some manufacturers, like Vittoria, now offer gravel-specific 29' tires. So the world of MTB tires is now also open on bikes that can accommodate up to 29' tires. Nevertheless, the 700c road tire size is at the cutting edge of gravel tires and now offers a huge selection for every conceivable gravel riding situation.
Tire width
The tire width directly influences the bike's comfort, traction, efficiency, weight, and handling. But there's no such thing as a universally appropriate tire width. On thoroughbred gravel race bikes, an average tire width of 38 mm turned out to be optimal. The tires found on off-road gravel bikes, on the other hand, are significantly wider, often going up to 50 mm.
Wide tires allow you to run lower pressures and are more comfortable than narrower tires. Due to the larger contact patch, more traction can be generated, which lets you corner faster.
Rim width
The rim width determines how wide the tire inflates, and thus directly influences the actual tire width. Skinny tires on wide rims inflate wider than indicated, but they don't inflate as tall as they would on a narrower rim. It's not always easy to tell which tire width matches which rim width.
In this case, the specifications of the ETRTO table can help, allowing you to select and check all possible combinations.
The tread pattern of the tire is probably the most important point for gravel tires. Like with MTB tires, the tread determines where and how a gravel tire can be used. An extremely grippy and aggressive tread pattern typically provides a lot of off-road traction and confidence, but it's less efficient than a smooth tread pattern designed for speed. In between, there are tires that aim to strike a balance between speed and traction. This often determines how the tire inflates. A uniform pattern of similar knobs spanning the entire width of the tire results in a predictable tire with consistent cornering grip. A square profile results from much more aggressive shoulder knobs and offers more grip in the corners, but the handling changes depending on how far you lean the bike over. Aggressive shoulder knobs give you more confidence when cornering and they catch the bike when making a sharp turn. On compacted surfaces, however, these tires often feel a little less manoeuvrable than their more rounded counterparts.
While the casing is absolutely decisive for mountain biking, it's not yet all that important for gravel riding. Although some brands offer tires with different casings, most gravel tire models only have one casing option. In addition, comparing between brands is difficult due to the different marketing terms used.
The same applies here as with the casings: Only few brands offer the same model with different rubber compounds. However, there are significant differences between the brands' models. Cheaper tires are usually much harder, whereas more expensive models often combine several compounds and are softer.
As far as hardness is concerned, there is a rule of thumb: the harder the tire, the more efficient and durable it is, but at the cost of grip. Softer tires conform to the ground and offer more grip on all surfaces.
However, because the brands' marketing terms are often meaningless, some tires are difficult to compare. The only way to find how they perform is through trial and error ' fortunately, we've done that for you!
Puncture protection on gravel tires is a tricky subject, and not always easy to determine through testing. Even when comparing real world experiences with lab tests and combining that with long-term reviews, we're not able to make reliable statements about the puncture resistance of 20 tires. We didn't puncture any of the tires during our tests. And so we must rely entirely on the laboratory values to determine the most puncture-proof tire.
But what determines puncture protection in the first place? Puncture-proof tires have a more robust casing, usually a harder rubber compound, and they're often just thicker, which makes it harder to puncture the tire. However, this also means that more puncture-resistant tires are usually heavier and more inefficient than those that don't resist punctures so well.
Tubes in a gravel bike? Who still does that? Going tubeless offers less rolling resistance and more puncture protection. At the same time, being able to run lower pressures offers more traction. Gravel bikes must be set up tubeless. Period.
Fortunately, all the tires on test are tubeless ready. While some need a little more persuasion, they ultimately all sealed.
Even if tubeless tires are indispensable on gravel bikes, installing them is much more demanding than with a tube. But with the right rim and properly installed tubeless tape, the tires should all seal relatively easily. Tubeless tires tend to fit a little tighter, which can make them difficult to mount without the appropriate tools. However, we were able to fit all tires on test with a pair of sturdy tire levers. A little tip: A compressor or a special tubeless pump works wonders and makes the installation much easier. The choice of tubeless sealant is crucial, too. Our tests have shown that liquid sealant usually works better than the more viscous stuff.
The optimal tire pressure is a complicated compromise between traction, comfort, and efficiency. And a matter of personal preference. We all like to think of our ideal tire pressure as the ideal tire pressure for all scenarios and riders, but it's a very individual and personal question that depends on the terrain and riding style, preferences, and not least the tire width. The tire pressures specified on the tires of the test field reflect the normal range that riders usually prefer, though Vittoria indicate a maximum pressure of 6 bar, which is far from typical gravel tire pressures. The remaining brands usually settle at a maximum of 4 bar, with Challenge specifying a maximum of just 3 bar. Some manufacturers also indicate a minimum tire pressure. However, a minimum of 2.5 bar goes against typical gravel tire pressures, which often fall well below that.
To mountain bikers, this is common knowledge, but it's a good idea to have different tires at the front and rear, especially when going off-road. This is due to the fundamentally different requirements of the front and rear tires. On the front wheel, you need significantly more traction and cornering grip for confidence and control when riding off-road. At the rear, however, rolling efficiency plays a more important role because it can save you valuable watts. And a rear wheel skid is easier to control and less scary than sliding out at the front. That said, a grippy front tire and a fast rolling rear tire isn't the go-to combination for all scenarios. Sometimes, you'll also need a grippy rear tire, simply to avoid spinning out in slippery terrain.
We subjected 20 tires to the ultimate test, raced them through the Black Forest, and examined them in a laboratory. But what really matters, and how important are the individual reviews?
Real-world tests
Probably the most demanding group test in GRAN FONDO history: we fitted over 60 tires to brand-new DT Swiss G spline rims, and tested them on our favourite gravel race and gravity-gravel bikes, climbing steep climbs and racing down fast descent on our test track. We tested them on every conceivable terrain, swung ourselves onto the bikes in the blistering heat and in the pouring rain. We also integrated some technical sections into the route.
But what do we look for in a real world test? Sure, the first impression counts: how do the tires ride on different surfaces? How much traction and cornering grip do they provide? How much compliance do the tires offer, and how efficiently do they roll? And of course, what do the tires look like, and what do they smell like? Yes, you read that right, we actually tested the tires' smell. To our surprise, there are big differences, and we'll tell you which tire we think smells the best.
Laboratory tests
We visited Schwalbe's in-house laboratory and put the tires through their paces to find out what's behind their rubber facade. The standardised tests for rolling efficiency, as well as pinch and puncture resistance provide good reference points, allowing us to make direct comparisons. Nevertheless, they remain laboratory values, and don't necessarily reflect the tires' performance on your local trail or distant gravel roads. It's difficult to replicate real-world conditions in the laboratory, especially with conditions as wide ranging as you'll encounter with gravel riding.
For the speed gravel tires, we had just one priority. You won't find any compromises or trail performance here because these tires are all about speed and nothing but speed. Whether it's road, hardpack, asphalt or gravel, these models are unbeatable.
Efficiency is clearly prioritised here, and you can see that when looking at the tires. The shallow tread and smooth centre strip don't just make these the ideal choice for speed freaks, but some of them also perform brilliantly as rear tires only. Our speed king is the Schwalbe G-One RS: With just 12 watts of rolling resistance, it is the fastest tire in the test field, and also offers lots of grip off-road thanks to the aggressive shoulder knobs.
Just average at everything or true all-rounders? Although these tires are called all-rounders, they are not all the same. Here, too, they run the gamut from tires that can almost compete with the speed category in terms of efficiency, to absolute traction monsters. That said, the all-rounders can't really compete with the respective specialist in their field, though they do perform excellently in almost all situations. Our all-rounders offer a good compromise between efficiency, traction, and comfort on all surfaces.
All-rounders are the best choice for those who don't want to commit, preferring to keep all their options open. Fast bike paths and high-speed trail descents? No problem for all-rounders. We recommend the Continental Terra Trail and the Specialized S-Works Tracer due to their surprising grippiness despite rolling relatively efficiently.
Is it a mountain bike or a drop bar bike? You'd be forgiven for asking that with the absolute grip monsters in this category. These tires are mainly used on loamy forest floors and loose surfaces, outshining the competition on the trails. The ideal trail tire doesn't necessarily have to excel on gravel. In this category, the rolling efficiency measured in the lab is secondary. When descending on trail, a grippy tread pattern and a soft rubber compound are worth their weight in gold. This is where they leave competition behind. The MAXXIS Rambler gets our recommendation. Even if the tread pattern isn't the most aggressive, this tire can outperform all others in terms of traction, deserving the title of the grippiest tire on test.
Our carefree tires weren't chosen in advance, but simply proved to be particularly durable during the course of the test. They can and will take a beating. Note: looks can be deceiving! It's not the most aggressive looking and fattest tires that made it into this category.
The tires from Panaracer turned out to be the most puncture resistant in the lab, specifically the GravelKing SK+, offered the most pinch protection and fared equally well in the puncture test. The GravelKing+ tires were confidence-inspiring too. Schwalbe's G-One R & RS tires also performed above average in terms of robustness, which is impressive considering their low weight and high efficiency.
Looks can be deceiving
The look of the tires has a direct influence on your perception, occasionally giving a false impression of their capabilities. For example, fast looking tires like the Vittoria Terreno Dry aren't always that fast, and very knobby tires like the Schwalbe G-One Ultrabite look like the ultimate mud tire, but they quickly pack up with mud and mutate into slicks.
Fit: Easy-peasy vs a feat of strength
Fitting the tires either works or it doesn't. Some go on super easy without any tools and inflate on the first try, others are very difficult to fit or don't seal. Here, the tires from Challenge and Pirelli proved to be particularly troublesome. Challenge tires need a lot of persuasion and sturdy tire levers to get on the rim, whereas the models from Pirelli prefer a little more sealant to properly seal the tire.
Light ' fast
Less weight doesn't automatically result in a fast tire, and it plays a rather minor role in most situations. A more efficient rolling tire makes up for the difference in weight in most situations. 10 watts less is often worth more than a 100 g weight saving.
Gravel ' gravel
Not all gravel is the same. That sounds trivial at first, but it's surprising how big the differences between the tires actually are. The tires are often worlds apart, even within the same category. That's good, because it means you can find the perfect tires for your specific needs.
Tan-wall ' tan-wall
Tan-walls are back and they're here to stay. However, retro looking tan sidewalls aren't all made equal ' there's a clear distinction between real and faux tan. Challenge offer the most beautiful tires in the test field, especially because of the naturally tan sidewalls. They reveal the natural colour of the fibres instead of covering them in black rubber. While this saves weight, it also means the sidewalls are less robust. Other manufacturers like Vittoria, WTB, and Schwalbe imitate the tan-wall look with coloured sidewalls, which doesn't always look that nice. Ultimately, it must suit the bike, perform well, and appeal to your individual taste.
Front tires ' rear tires
What's long been standard on mountain bikes should also become a lot more common in the gravel sector. The different requirements of the front and rear wheels require different tires, and that's how you should set up your bike. Our favourite combinations are the Schwalbe G-One R & RS, and the Challenge Getaway & Gravel Grinder. And, like on a mountain bike, the grippy tire goes on the front, while the fast rolling tire belongs on the rear!
Some bikes and accessories are true designer pieces and too beautiful to be left in the cellar. That's why you should take a look at the article on bikes in the home in our sister magazine DOWNTOWN. We show you how you can beautifully display your favorite bike/accessory in your home.
Gravel tires are as versatile as the use cases themselves, and this is also reflected in our group test. And while this makes it more difficult to choose the right tires, it also means you can find the perfect tires for all types of riders and conditions. And so we haven't selected one best in test, best all-round tire, or the fastest tire under all circumstances. Instead, by dividing the tires into different categories we wanted to make it easier for you to compare the models and ultimately find the perfect tires for your needs.
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Words: Calvin Zajac Photos: Jan Richter, Simon Kohler
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