Steel plate cutting is a process where a part of the plate is separated from the rest. There are two distinct methods: thermal (hot) and mechanical (cold).
The most common cutting methods used for steel plate are:
Thermal:
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Cold:
There are many ways and methods of steel cutting. They can basically be divided into two methods: Thermal cutting and Cold cutting. Thermal cutting methods use thermal energy obtained by combustion reaction, electric arc or light rays. Cold cutting methods use mechanical energy for cutting. Typical examples of thermal cutting methods are oxy-fuel (or flame) cutting, plasma cutting and laser cutting. Typical examples of cold cutting methods are waterjet cutting, shearing, sawing, punching and machining.
The most common thermal cutting methods used for steel plate are: Oxy-fuel (or flame), plasma and laser cutting.
Oxy-fuel cutting is the oldest and most commonly used steel cutting method. It is used for cutting materials 3-300 mm thick. A burning gas jet or flame (acetylene or propane) is used to heat the steel to its ignition temperature (approx. 900°C). Oxygen is mixed into the fuel flame to enhance the melting and burning process. The gas jet oxidizes and blows away the liquid steel and oxidation products, producing a hole. The flame motion at a proper speed forms a continuous gap between the plate parts to be separated.
Plasma cutting is a thermal cutting process where an electrical arc ionizes a gas jet to form a plasma at temperatures exceeding 20 000°C. The steel is melted, oxidized and blown away. The tool is moved along the intended cutting line at a proper speed forming a gap line between the plate parts to be separated.
Laser cutting is a thermal process where a high-power laser beam is used to cut, melt or burn a hole in a steel sheet or plate. The beam motion will produce a line gap, separating the sheet or plate into two.
Waterjet or abrasive waterjet (AWJ) cutting is a cutting method where a high-pressure water jet carrying a fine-grained abrasive erodes a hole in the steel. The waterjet motion will produce a line gap, separating the steel plate into two.
Preheating steel before cutting increases the temperature in the vicinity of the cut during the actual process. This will reduce the risk for hydrogen-induced cracking in particular for high-strength/hard steel. The maximum temperature allowed greatly depends on the steel grade. Too high temperature may destroy the steel properties.
Postheating can be applied directly after thermal cutting in particular for high-strength and hard steels. The purpose is to reduce residual stresses and to make hydrogen diffuse out of the cut pieces, thereby reducing the risk for hydrogen-induced cracking. A furnace or a gas flame can be used for post-heating. Using a flame calls for careful temperature control to prevent undesired changes in steel properties.
The single most important factor controlling cutting speed is plate thickness. SSAB steel grades can be cut as any commercial steel grade. The cutting machine suppliers give proper recommendations.
A hydrogen-induced crack is a delayed crack phenomena that might occur during cutting of steel using thermal methods. The cutting process will contribute with some hydrogen, with temperatures stimulating diffusion of hydrogen and residual tensile stresses. The concentration of hydrogen in the steel, close to the cut, will increase. In hard steel in particular, the conditions necessary for hydrogen-induced cracking are now present. Since diffusion of hydrogen in the steel needs some time, cracking can be delayed for some days.
Oxy-fuel cutting: Make sure the relation between cutting speed and cutting oxygen pressure is correct. A high speed requires a high pressure and vice versa. To obtain satisfactory cut edge quality, the cutting speed must be maintained within a certain range. Check the recommended cutting speed provided by the manufacturer.
Plasma cutting: The recommended speed provided by the manufacturer often works well with new consumables, when the consumables get more worn, it often helps to reduce the cutting speed slightly. The voltage during plasma cutting will affect the shape of the kerf. If the kerf is very narrow at the bottom and wide at the top, the voltage should be decreased. The same situation will occur if the travel speed is to high. If the kerf is very wide at the bottom, the voltage could be increased.
Laser cutting: The most important factors for a good cut edge quality during laser cutting is surface cleanliness and temperature of the material. Remove paint or corrosion prior to laser cutting, try to nest the cutting sequence so the heat is distributed over the entire plate.
Waterjet cutting: A low cutting speed will result in a better cut edge quality, make sure that the nozzle is in good condition when high quality is required.
A dirty, painted or corroded plate surface is detrimental for the cut edge quality, although this depends on the method.
For oxy-fuel and plasma cutting, the surface condition has a limited influence, during oxy-fuel cutting the speed might need to be reduced slightly if the surface is painted or corroded.
For laser cutting, surface quality is very important and a very clean (naked) plate surface near the intended cutting line is needed.
The Heat Affected Zone (HAZ) is the area of base material which is not melted but has had its microstructure and properties altered by the intensive heat of cutting operations.
The size of the HAZ depends on steel grade, the plate thickness and heat input. Higher heat input will provide wider HAZ. According to that wider HAZ will be when cutting with Oxy-fuel cutting method comparing to laser cutting which will provide narrower HAZ.
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Time for another installment of cutting trials with the Cricut Maker. Y’all really seem to enjoy these so today we are going to talk about 10 things you didn’t know the Cricut Maker could cut. What can a Cricut Maker do? So many things and I hope to share them all with you over time. I hope there is at least one thing on this list that really, really surprises you. Grab your Cricut Maker or Maker 3 and make some of these projects below. This post is sponsored by Cricut, however, all projects and opinions are my own.
There are so many things that Cricut Maker machines can do. It is hard to list them all! Today we are covering 10 materials and how they are cut with the Maker and Maker 3. You can click around in the table of contents above or read the entire post.
Want all of the information below in video format? Just watch below!
Can’t watch the video or want more information? Follow along below!
The top thing that I want everyone to know is that Cricut Makers can cut wood! Can I get a hallelujah? Yes it is time to make all the custom designs you love right in your own home. You will need the knife blade for this one but it is well worth it. Imagine cutting 1/16″ basswood right from your computer into any shape you can imagine. Oh yes! This is all possible with the Adaptive Tool System™ that only comes with the Maker line of machines.
Want to make this puzzle? You can get the full instructions on this blog post. That includes instructions for designing the project as each one will be custom and different. With Cricut Design Space, it is easy to design your own projects like this one. You can actually click here if you would like a beginner’s guide to Design Space.
Now that you know that the Cricut Maker can cut wood, but what about cutting plastic? I did some experiments with two different types of plastics this time. The first is Maker’s Plastic TM and the second is Heatform moldable plastic sheets. They both cut great! For experiments with thicker materials, I find it easy to use the knife blade and the settings for the Heavy Chipboard. This does many passes to get a good cut. You can then pause the machine and check the cut to see if it is complete. Then just write down the number of passes for your next project.
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Need more information on checking the cut? Click here to read more!
Remember the Knife Blade is for thicker materials up to 2.4 mm! Do not go over this thickness when experimenting!
I actually wanted to make a project with this one! So I used this cut file to cut a pin wheel. The moldable plastic material can actually be bent using a hair dryer. I bent it into place and used a wire to hold everything. It is also paintable! So I painted it up for my garden! All that is left is to add it to a stake and let it spin!
I couldn’t stop there! I moved on to 40 gauge copper and put my machine to work. This next project both cut and scored the metal for an embossed look. Yes the Cricut Maker did all of this! The scoring wheel is great for embossing heavier materials like this. I love the idea of changing up my projects with some metal accents.
A little advice when cutting metal, first of all use your light grip mat. This material is thin and you don’t want to damage it when lifting from the mat. Also, when your cut is complete, be sure to use a spatula or a XL scraper to help lift the material. Go slowly to not damage your pieces.
Want to make a cute vase or metal box like this one? You can access the design file in Cricut Design Space, and then break out your Cricut Maker. Be sure to CAREFULLY fold along the score lines as they are easy to miss. Once everything has been folded, assemble the bottom and sides with a little glue. You have a cute accent piece to add to your home decor and it is made from a gorgeous copper as well.
I, for one, cannot get over the projects I am able to make with burlap now. I developed a method where I stiffen the burlap then cut it for fray free pieces that can make any design you desire. This one is so perfect for home decor and more!
Click here to see more about the method as well as get a cut file for this cute little succulent.
I wanted to explore delicate Cricut Maker materials in this post as well. After all, I have shown the Cricut Maker can cut thick materials, what about the thinnest of the thin? I picked up some extra fine crepe paper to try it out. This was my first time cutting this thin paper and boy was I impressed! The machine used the rotary blade to get perfect cuts without dragging and lifting the paper off of the mat.
I would recommend using the light grip mat as well as being cautious when lifting your pieces. They are delicate and you will need to use care. Otherwise, feel free to use my cut file to make this pretty paper flower and add it to a barrette!
With the Cricut Maker knife blade, I was successful in cutting leather and I have not looked back. I have cut a few different thicknesses and brands and so far so good. You can actually pick up the Cricut leather here to get started.
Want to make this leather journal? No problem! Click here to see how to make it!
I get asked all the time about cutting stencils with the Cricut Maker machines. The answer is yes you can! I used a 4 mil stencil material then cut it with the Maker. I was able to make a gorgeous stencil and now it is ready to create something fun!
The stencil material setting in Cricut Design Space did not give me optimum results. After some experimenting, I found that the copper metal setting worked, and the cuts were perfect. So, if you are having trouble with one material, you might try a setting for a different material as an experiment. Just be sure to write down what works so you will have it for next time.
I also get a ton of questions about cutting craft foam. I have done some experiments but thought I would really put it to the test for today with a fun project. Here, I cut a ton of different shapes to make a lacing activity that is perfect for teaching those little ones their fine motor skills.
The cut file for this project is in Cricut Design Space. This is a great way to test out a material quite frankly. I was able to cut a ton of different shapes and really put the craft foam to the test. The foam cut great! I hate cutting craft foam by hand as I can never get the cuts perfect. The Cricut Maker, however, gets them perfect every time. I would recommend the knife blade for cutting craft foam and not the deep cut blade.
The rotary blade on the Cricut Maker has revolutionized the cutting of fabric. This allows you to cut virtually any fabric without backer. I do however get questions most often about delicate fabrics and if the machine will work on those. Yes, yes, yes! I actually cut lace in this post but am back cutting some satin today.
I used the fabric mat and rotary blade along with the proper material setting for this one. It cut perfectly! The only thing I would say is be careful when you lift from your mat. The mat is sticky and will pull at the fibers causing fray around the edges. This is okay if you are allowing for it in your seam allowance but I thought you should be aware.
Do you remember shrinky dinks as a kid? Well they are back and in a big way! They have some that are printable and that is perfect for the print then cut feature of the Cricut Maker. You can grab a cut file for the buttons shown below to test it out for yourself.
When cutting shrink plastic, there is no specific setting. If you are doing the print then cut feature, however, you can cut as many times as you like. The registration lines show the machine where to cut so you can cut over and over again and it will cut in the same place. I would recommend starting with the copper metal setting and doing more passes if needed.
If you don’t know, shrink plastic starts out as a really thin, cuttable sheet. You then bake it for a few minutes after cutting and it turns into a think plastic piece that can be used for buttons and so much more. You will be hooked after using it once!
So, which of these Cricut Maker materials will you be cutting? What else would you like to see me try to cut with my machine? And which of these surprises you the most? What can a Cricut Maker do? Oh so much!
Want to know how the Maker stacks up against the Explore? See my post here!
This is a sponsored conversation written by me on behalf of Cricut. The opinions and text are all mine.
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