When designing for laser cutting, you need software that can turn your ideas into a file CNC laser cutters can understand. If SendCutSend is making your parts, that means 2D vector graphics files in 1:1 scale, in .dxf, .dwg, .ai, or .eps format. But what if you’re making your own parts on your own laser?
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In this article we’ll cover some common options and what to look for when choosing software to laser cut your parts.
You can think of laser cutting software from two perspectives. There’s software you use to create a design. Then there’s software you use to tell the laser cutting machine how to cut your design. Some software has the capabilities to do both the design and the laser instructions.
A typical workflow might start with design software to create the shape you want to cut, exporting it in an appropriate format and then importing it to set up the cut process in a laser instruction software. From there, the instructions file (usually called g-code) goes to the laser cutting machine and the parts get cut.
This shouldn’t come as a surprise, but they all work differently. In some software you create your design by drawing 2-dimensional vector shapes like lines, curves and basic polygons. You can add, subtract and manipulate them in a variety of ways to end up with the design you want. In other software, you may create full 3-dimensional models using sketches, extrusions, sweeps, lofts, etc. In the end the goal from all of them is the same, to take your design and export it in a format suitable for laser cutting. That’s usually some format of 2D vector graphics file.
Laser control software is used to tell the laser how to cut out your design. That can include tool paths, how fast the laser moves, how much power it should output and when, what order to cut the lines, where and how to start and stop cuts on the lines (lead in and out), and so on. Typically the software does this by creating a g-code file, which is just a list of simple machine commands that the machine can interpret and follow.
If you’re planning to have SendCutSend cut your parts for you, we take care of this part on our end so you can just focus on the design. If you have your own laser, it may have its own software or you may have to find a compatible one. Even though most CNC style machines use some type of g-code to operate, not all g-code is compatible with all machines.
For software that doesn’t have the capability of creating the design, you want to be able to import your designs from whatever software you’re using. Make sure the formats your design software can export align with the formats your g-code software can import. As mentioned above, SendCutSend requires .dxf, .dwg, .ai, or .eps formats. Some g-code software can only accept vector files, some will also accept raster files like bitmap images made up of pixels.
It’s important that your software and your hardware are compatible. We’ve provided guidelines and acceptable file formats if we’re doing the cutting for you. For your laser it’s usually safe to stick with the software the manufacturer suggests or find one you prefer that’s compatible. Most machines that read g-code require it to be written in a certain way. Some machines can’t understand certain commands or need specific information at the beginning or end of the g-code file to function correctly.
Beyond exporting in the proper formats, the requirements for any software should be based on your specific needs. Certain software will be better at certain tasks than others. A software you’re already familiar with may be the best choice for you, even if it isn’t the best for someone else. Also consider the types of projects you’ll be designing. Just because one software can do both design and g-code, doesn’t mean it’s good at both.
Adobe Illustrator (AI) is a well respected vector-based software which has been considered an industry leader for decades. If you are in graphic or industrial design, you will be well aware of AI.
This software is an excellent choice for laser-cutting design given its robust features, stable nature, and support from one of the world’s biggest software companies, Adobe. Plugins are available to take the designs and turn them into the g-code needed to run the laser.
For hobbyists and small businesses, it can be on the expensive side. To use AI you need to pay a subscription fee, rather than purchasing a single license. This cost is hard to justify unless you are creating new designs regularly and generating income from them.
In saying that, most professional designers use Illustrator as their choice of vector design software.
To learn more about using Illustrator to design for laser cutting, check out these resources.
Inkscape is a free, open-source version of Adobe Illustrator. There’s nothing you can do in Illustrator that you can’t do in Inkscape, it may just be a little more complicated. Millions and millions of dollars have gone into fine-tuning and adjusting the user interface and experience of Adobe Illustrator, whereas Inkscape has had to rely solely on developers and volunteer feedback.
The major advantage of Inkscape is that it’s free. But there are other reasons to use it. For example, there’s a large community involved in using the tool, where you can get help and tutorials. The community has also developed plugins to turn Inkscape designs into g-code files.
Professional designers are usually going to use Illustrator rather than Inkscape, but that isn’t universal. There are many professionals who operate solely on open-source platforms.
To learn more about using Inkscape to design for laser cutting, check out these resources.
Lightburn is an extremely popular software for laser cutting. It’s great for beginners with lasers at home and many businesses that use laser cutters. Many CO2 lasers ship with a license for LightBurn. The design side of LightBurn can be somewhat basic compared to the other options here, but if it’s enough to get you what you need, LightBurn is an excellent option. LightBurn can import files to turn into g-code if you have another software you prefer to design in.
Built specifically to control lasers, LaserGRBL is a free laser control software for Windows. It’s a much simpler interface, but has a limited feature set. What makes it different from the others listed here is that it is meant to control a laser directly. Rather than exporting a g-code file for your laser, LaserGRBL runs on a computer that is connected directly to the laser.
Unlike LightBurn, the design side of Autodesk Fusion is excellent, allowing full 3D modeling, sheet metal tools and much more. Autodesk Fusion has built-in manufacturing tools that will let you take your designs and create the g-code files needed by your machine directly in one package. As a bonus, Autodesk Fusion can also handle milling, turning, plasma cutting, water jet cutting, laser cutting and more. If you do a lot of fabrication and want one software that can do it all, check out Autodesk Fusion. If you want to send your files out to be laser cut, Autodesk Fusion can export the appropriate file formats too.
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We’ve combined a handful of professional CAD/CAM software packages into one here. They all fall on the expensive end of this list, with capabilities that are often beyond the needs of most users. If you need more advanced capabilities, these could be worth looking into. CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) software tends to be used for more than just laser cutting, capable of creating g-code for all sorts of CNC manufacturing processes.
If you are using SolidWorks or newer, check out our SolidWorks Plugin. You can upload to SendCutSend and get live quotes without ever leaving SolidWorks.
There’s no single answer to this question. Because laser cutting is typically a 2-dimensional process, the software usually needs to be a 2D image. Vector formats are the most common since they can easily be translated into straight and curved line movements for the machine to follow. But some software has the ability to import raster type images like .bmp, .jpg, .png for laser engraving. Some software has the capability of converting a raster into a vector (though not always the way you want).
You can learn more about the different file types used in designing and cutting with lasers in this blog article: What is a Vector File? For sending your designs to SendCutSend, use file formats .dxf, .dwg, .ai or .eps.
The best laser cutting software is the one that works best for you.
Try to leverage what you already know. If you have experience with something like Illustrator, look into the plugins that will allow you to turn your designs into g-code from there. For users with CAD experience, something like Autodesk Fusion might be a good choice.
Want more information on laser cutting machine software? Feel free to contact us.
For those of you just getting started with no experience to rely on, you might want to try out a few different options to see which you like. We’d advise you to not get stuck on just one option though. Sometimes it’s easy to stick with something because you’re familiar with it and miss out on a better option. Look for options with available tutorials and resources you can lean on if you need help.
There is no universally “perfect” laser cutting software because different people like different methods of working. Some people think Inkscape’s experience is better, while others lean towards Illustrator. Your best bet is to try out multiple options before you settle on one.
Hi to all.
OK here is the thing. I am a long time woodworker but recently moved into a smaller space that is limiting the size of items I can produce. This caused me to look at smaller items like the usual bread/cheese/cutting boards etc.
The obvious next move is to buy a laser cutter/engraver to make above mentioned more sellable.
Easy right? NO NOT SO MUCH!!!
After spending hours on youtube watching videos where every other review I check the ‘reviewer’ claims that machine xyz is the newest benchmark in desktop lasers, I realised I need some help in picking.
OK lets start with what I do know/think I want.
Now the confusing stuff:
Apologies for all the questions, but I really need some assistance
1: wattage, yes, faster and deeper. Also a wider kerf, so fine details may be more difficult or impossible. Do NOT trust the manufacturers spot size claims. Virtually all are hopelessly optimistic. Decent rule of thumb is to double whatever they claim. So, a claimed .06mm x .08 is likely closer to .12x.16. Many seem to be approaching a rectangle “spot” with aspect of 1.5:1 or 2:1. That .12x.16 could easily be .12x.20.
If you print something out on paper at 600dpi, and again at 300 DPI, that’s roughly the difference.
And that rectangular kerf is gonna cause headaches if you plan to cut anything that requires precise joinery. Just a reality check. Anything with enough power cut well (20W+) is going to limit your resolution to sub 300dpi. More power means bigger spots mean lower resolution. Some of the new machines have dual power modes that claim to “do it all”. I have no experience.
2: Air assist in whatever form, IMO, should be considered mandatory, whether included or “optional” or DIY retrofit. It keeps the lens clean for longer life, less maintenance, and also cleaner workpieces.
3: Big workpieces. Yes. Within practical limits. Lugging around an expanded 4’ square frame to lay on top of a big slab is doable, but not ideal. The same done with a 2’ machine is much easier. I’d consider the smaller machines mobile in the same way a big miter/chop saw is mobile. You can do it, but it’s a pain in the arse.
Everybody has their favs. I don’t really wanna get into the “what machine/company is better” argument. They all have pros and cons. I’d just suggest sticking to companies that have a lot of topics here. You won’t get good support from any of the manufacturers, so you may as well stick with what’s popular. That way forum help is easier/faster.
Unmentioned… Your budget should include accomodations for an enclosure and exhaust. You will eventually be creating a surprising amount of smoke/fumes/odor. Keeping it out of your workspace will quickly become a pressing issue without a way to move it away.
In addition to what @cggorman notes about spot size, manufacturers (and sellers) straight-up lie about diode laser power. The only power that matters is what the laser beam delivers to the material, but manufacturers claim any other power they possibly can, just to get a bigger number.
Commonly available diode lasers convert somewhere between 10 and 20% of their input power into light output power, so manufacturers use the much larger diode input power. For example, Laser Tree has an 80 W (input power) laser that produces 10 W of light (output power). I suspect considerable optimism in the “10 W” power, but at least it’s in the right ballpark.
The most egregious example of specsmanship is touting “machine power”, which is the sum total of the laser input power, the stepper motor power, the controller power, and anything else they can find; they may be using the wall wart’s overall input power rating. That claim seems typical for cheap machines with low-power diodes and terrible hardware, so treat “machine power” as a hard no.
Regardless of the power level, diode lasers require multiple passes to get through 1/8 inch laser-grade plywood and MDF. While thicker wood can be cut, you probably won’t be satisfied with the results. Also, ignore any and all claims about how well / fast a diode laser cuts any thickness of anything.
Chris pointed out the absolute need for an enclosure and fume exhaust to keep your shop livable; any pictures of a happy family engraving coasters on the dining room table are fanciful. Be aware that other end of the exhaust tube may create a problem for nearby neighbors if they’re not accustomed to wood smoke and, should you venture into engraving / cutting plastics, they could get downright hostile.
But you’ll discover a laser is a wonderful tool after you surmount the initial learning curve. My (considerably larger) CO₂ laser rapidly became the most-used tool in my shop and lets me build widgets that would be impossible (for me, anyhow) with any other tool.
Welcome aboard!
I’ll add… most ssl (solid state lasers) exist in low output power… mostly around 5 to 6W. As the modules/manufacturing gets better the gang these up, combining the output into a single beams… at least theoretically… This is an xTool M40 module only… uses 8 * 5.5W diodes to get 40W output. What I’m trying to say, and put so poorly, is that if it’s over ~5.5W it likely contains multiple ssl devices.
I don’t know much about xTool and I’m not saying yea or nea, just there are higher power options available at added cost.
I think with the right materials, either my 40W co2 or this 40W appear to cut about as well…
I will put in a word of warning… I’ve seen a fair number of videos from reviewers that actually had these running and cutting 1/2" wood and mdf. I also noted the manufacturer doesn’t have any of these on hand. This can for a couple of reasons… they sell them off more quickly than they make them or they are a failure and won’t be back. Hunting around on the Internet, I found one site that stated they were discontinued… so I don’t know the reality.
These are not easy to make… everything has to be aligned perfectly with complicated beam combiners. They also have to stay aligned after a trip half way around the world…
As these are not user serviceable… it works or it doesn’t.
Good luck
I’l go out on a limb here. For your budget and you mentioned mostly engraving, you will be looking at a diode. Many are now coming out with fully enclosed gantry lasers taking them from Class 4 (bad if you look at them) to Class 1 (safe…mostly safe…always wear goggles though). Along with this, many include the air assist, a honeycomb bed, a camera(for better but never perfect placement) and a rotary for engraving tumblers, mugs, etc. Along with this, many now offer the ability to only use some of the diodes. Less for detail and more for cutting. As you add diodes, you MUST increase beam size. Regardless what a certain YT’er states with some seriously bad math. Less diodes…smaller beam size. Also, each combined diode necessarily loses a percentage of power. 6 5watt diodes does not quite equal 30 watts combined. Not all beam size is rectangular, some can be more oblong as well. Also a 20 watt does NOT do twice what a 10 watt does. Just doesn’t work that way.
IMO, right now, Roly Lasermatic offers the best deal and has nothing but praise for customer support. They offer various configurations and their 20 and 30 watt modules can be tuned down to 10 watt for fine engraving. It will be my next one. I believe the 30/10 watt with enclosure, honeycomb, air, and camera is $. I’m not sponsored by them. Just keep in mind the hidden costs for cheaper lasers. Trust me, it adds up quick lol.
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