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I recently upgraded my dust collector to a Clear Vue CV cyclone dust collector. If you haven't already seen that video and article be sure to check it out. The upgrade was something I've wanted to do for a long time and I'm glad I finally got that behind me. But in order to take full advantage of the more powerful system the old piping needed to be replaced. Running nothing but 4' for the new system would drastically cut down on air flow and basically starve the system.
Long before I got the collector I did a lot of research on piping and what to use and what to stay away from. I read a lot of Bill Pentz's research on the topic. If you're looking to make dust collection changes to your space I recommend that you stop by his website and soak up as much as you can. I decide to use 6' PVC for as much of the system as I could and hope to keep a constant 6' diameter of air flowing through the system at all times. After showing PVC dust collection pictures on social media the same common misconception was stated over and over; Static electricity from using PVC piping can cause a dust explosion in your dust collection system. FALSE. If you are interested in reading details on why this is a myth feel free to check out these two great articles on the topic: article 1 and article 2.
Update: A lot of people have asked for specifics regarding what I used so here is a brief list. All of the links will open in a new tab:
With my materials in mind I took to SketchUp to more easily move the tools around and find a layout that would work with the new dust collection system as well as maintain a good workflow and organization in the shop. The miter saw station, workbench, assembly table, cyclone cart, air cleaner cart, and lathe cart were imported from previous SketchUp models I created. The table saw, planer, jointer, bandsaw, drill press with cart, CV dust collector, and garage door were all imported from the SketchUp 3d Warehouse. Some of the items are not the perfect size for my tools though. So for the jointer I found one that was close to looking like mine then use the S for scale command to scale it to the overall dimensions of my jointer. Same for the drill press cart. Doing this will save you a ton of time modeling your shop tools and will also allow you to get a very accurate representation of your space for you to manipulate without breaking a sweat.
The planning was done, the collector was installed, and all of my supplies were delivered. Time to get busy. The majority of my pipe cuts were made with 3 cuts at the miter saw. The dedicated work surface and stop block setup of my miter saw station really helped out with handling the large sections of pipe. This was the first time I've seen pipe come in 14' lengths. One of the things I like the most about this miter saw station is the ability to process long lengths of stock with ease. Normally it's 12' rough sawn hard woods or something similar but in this case it handled the pipe with ease.
To reduce turbulence in the collector it is recommended that you start the piping out of the cyclone with a 5' section of straight pipe with no fittings. So that's what I did. You can see here that the intake angle of the cyclone isn't horizontal. It's at a slight angle to aid in collecting the dust in the bin below the cyclone. The location of the cyclone and the length of the first pipe needed worked out really well to clear the garage door rails in my garage'.I mean' It's a shop.
Work smarter, not harder. Any time you have the opportunity to assemble on the ground or on a work surface always take advantage of that instead of trying to assemble in the air.
To mount the pipe I used perforated metal strapping. It's not an elegant solution but it gets the job done and is inexpensive. Just make sure you mount everything to a wall stud for support.
The blast gates I'm using are the 6' aluminum self-cleaning gates from Lee Valley. Again, recommended by Bill Pentz. I previously made my own 4' blast gates for the last system I had. In this case I had no desire to make my own gates. I want to get up and running so I can work on projects.
The blast gates fit snugly inside the pipe and are sealed with a bead of silicone. It's best to put the blast gates closest to the main line as possible so you don't have a long section of pipe pressurized that isn't even being used. The most notable example of this is the blast gate for the miter saw station which I'll get to shortly.
My friend Shawn from Stone and Sons Workshop offered to lend a hand with the piping so I took him up on his offer. Having an extra set of hands as well as an extra 8' ladder made things go smoothly. We started with the branch going to the middle island. The bottom of the pipe ended up being about 8-1/2 feet off of the ground so there is very little risk of me hitting it when moving lumber around in the shop. My garage door opener is lower than that.
Shawn had the idea of using a wye fitting that terminates to a cap to allow for easy expansion later. It was a simple thought that makes a lot of sense and something that just never crossed my mind. I was planning on going straight down to the tools without thinking of future expansion. It's proof that two minds are most often better than one.
With the center branch done we focused on the miter saw station. Because my miter saw is so darn long in the front to back direction I made the original dust collection come up from below. There was no room for me to drop the larger pipe in from above so we went the same route with running the pipe to it. You can see here that the blast gate near my left hand will terminate suction to about 20' of pipe when the miter saw station is not being used. If the blast gate was located right at the miter saw station port then there would be unnecessary energy loss on that section of pipe at all times even when it wasn't used.
Standard 6' plastic dust collection ports are nearly impossible to find. So I had to make my own. I found that the least expensive route for me was to get a couple of these 6' HVAC Take Off fittings. 6' hose fits snugly over the top of them and they have an adhesive gasket material on the bottom. I got them from my local Lowes for $5.99 each.
To make the miter saw port I reduced the height of the take off with a jigsaw and attached it to the 4' opening with the adhesive gasket and four screws. The hose was clamped to it and you can't see it in the picture but I used a heat gun to stretch the hose over the pipe coming in.
Behind the miter saw I used a router and a flush trim bit to enlarge the 4' opening to the 6' port. This was the part of the entire install I was dreading as I didn't want to remove the miter saw and lose calibration. But it ended up being really easy and didn't take long at all.
At this point I had most of the tools hooked up. I figured it would be a good opportunity to test the dust collection on a few tools while I make the port for the jointer. I made a 24' rip cut on the table saw and was very pleased with the results. I had a tiny bit of dust shoot through on the exit of the cut. The over-arm dust collection on this saw is pretty awesome but you normally always get a bit of dust spraying out as you complete the cut and the blade passes through the back side of the material. The ending dust spray was reduced quite a bit.
Like in many other shops, my miter saw was the worst offender for stirring up dust. The last setup was a passive setup where the larger chips would just fall into the back of the box and form a funnel going to the dust port and the dust collector would create a draft of air to pull the fog of dust inside the box and inside the collector. It wasn't an isolated suction setup. Right before the upgrade I made two friction fit wings that fit on both sides of the saw and isolate the suction more to wards the blade. It helped with the previous setup and with the upgraded dust collector and pipe it's quite impressive. This tool showed the greatest level of improvement with the new dust collector and pipe installed. It makes me a little excited quite honestly :)
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The cut at the table saw and miter saw were to make this jointer port. Just a piece of 1/2' plywood with another 6' Take Off installed. I didn't reduce the height of the take off as it didn't matter in this application.
And here you can see it installed on the jointer.
The blast gates work perfectly with the pipe I was using. But due to the slight taper they have clamping a hose to it is a little inconsistent. To help hold the pipe in place and prevent the hose clamp from sliding the pipe off I used a small strip of double-sided tape on the blast gate before installing the hose. This worked great. Time will tell if it continues to hold or if I'll have to put a 2' section of pipe in between.
A pass over the jointer shows the dust collection working great.
I also made a couple passes with the planer. It works great as well except for a little bit of large debris being thrown out the front. That's an issue with this planer and not the dust collection though. This planer has a fan powered chip ejection on the back which does a good job by itself but it's always had this issue of throwing a few chunks forward at the end of the cut. You'll notice an open 4' port next to the planer connection on the pipe. This is because I didn't want to restrict the system down to a single 4' line for the planer. Leaving it open allows the collector to work efficiently by keeping the airflow up. I didn't notice anything trying to escape while the system was running.
Lets do an overview on the system. I have a 5' section of pipe coming out of the collector to reduce turbulence in the collector. Followed by a wye fitting that goes down to the perimeter branch. The first wye fitting goes to the bandsaw where I immediately have a 6' blast gate followed by a true 6' to dual 4' adapter. The gray hose goes to the factory port on my bandsaw. For now this gets me up and running but that port doesn't do a good job on this saw. In the near future I'll make a custom under the table shroud to collect the dust immediately as it passes through the table. The blue hose is a Rockler Dust Right hose that expands to 28 feet so I can clean my entire shop with it. Behind the saw I have a few of the Dust Right cleaning attachments which are great. I wanted this hose here because I also wanted to make a top-down arm for dust collection at the bandsaw. This gives me another hose to plug into that. Below the bandsaw wye fitting is another wye fitting going to the miter saw station. On each side of that wye fitting are the blast gates for the miter saw station and the jointer.
On the top side of the first wye fitting in the system is the branch going to the center island. At the top of the island drop is a wye fitting with a cap on top for future expansion. Then a wye fitting for the planer. The planer has a 6' blast gate followed by another true 6' to dual 4' adapter and only one port being used for the planer. That planer has a fan powered chip ejection which works great. The open port on the 6' to dual 4' adapter is for future expansion if needed but I'll leave it open in the mean time to prevent starving the system of air. Down from the planer connections is another 6' blast gate for the table saw followed by a 6' wye with a 4' piece coming off of it. This is the only part of the system where I have some concerns. A 6' diameter is roughly the same as two 4' diameters. I have one 4' pipe going down to the factory port on the table saw. The other 4' section is for the over-arm collection that I'm reducing quite a bit. Where the black flex hose connects to the pipe is a lose fit held in place with two screws so there is some air flow gained around that hose but the restriction is still there. I'll be paying close attention to how this setup performs. If it works out with no issues after some use I might just leave it alone. If some issues pop up because of it I'll have to figure out something different to utilize a full 4' of suction over the top of the table saw blade. Time will tell.
By Alan Siebenthaler
HK Marketing/Territory Manager
While we have used a Legos analogy before to describe the ease of piecing together gasketed box culverts, installing a pipe-to-manhole connection isn't quite that simple.
The seal at the connection point is integral to preventing water leakage, which can erode the fines around your structure. A watertight seal also prevents any sewage or stormwater from leaking out and contaminating surrounding groundwater. Needless to say, that seal is critical. That's why we've compiled a list of things to know about pipe-to-manhole connections to ensure that your structure stays watertight.
Mortar: A combination of cement or similar material, fine aggregate, water and sometimes other biological fibers like glass or wool to increase watertightness. Mortars are mixed and placed on-site.
Cast-in connections: A'variety of connectors'that are cast into the manhole during production. These are affixed using a mandrel inside the manhole form prior to pouring the concrete.
Cored-hole/mechanically installed connectors: This involves a cored or formed hole and a separate, mechanically installed'connector.
Boot seals: Available either as a cast-in or mechanically installed, these flexible rubber seal connectors protrude from the manhole wall and allow for the insertion of a pipe. This type of seal will often have a steel band that is tightened around the perimeter to create a watertight seal with the pipe.
Most connectors are made from'EPDM Rubber. This rubber offers resistance to acid, alkali, ozone and UV rays. Frequently, connectors are shipped to job sites and sit in the elements for days, weeks or months before finally being installed. The UV resistance prevents premature aging due to excessive exposure and maintains the required physical properties.
Nitrile Rubber'should be used if the drainage system is going to convey any type of petroleum or oil product. This type of rubber withstands deterioration due to runoff from gas stations, car washes, parking garages, parking lots, and airports.
Mortar'is still used frequently across the United States for stormwater projects. Sanitary projects, however, usually require watertight rubber connectors, since mortar is not as resistant to movement of the pipe or manhole, and more likely to allow leakage over time. In terms of lifespan and labor costs, rubber is much more resistant to differential settlement, and takes less installation time because there is no need to mix and apply mortar and then wait for it to set before filling the trench.
We generally recommend against using mortar joints because they are less watertight and will inevitably lead to infiltration into your conveyance systems.
For'smaller pipes, the option to specify cast-in connections may be based on your confidence in the precaster's ability to precisely install the mandrels containing the connectors inside the forms. Once those connectors are placed and the concrete is poured, there is no changing their location. If the precaster has a coring machine, they will likely prefer to provide cored connections, since the coring can be done on demand to meet the requirements of the project. Also, in terms of quality control, some producers prefer coring because they feel more confident that the pipe connection will be exactly where it needs to be during installation.
For'larger pipes, we recommend cast-in connectors due to the curvature of the manhole. The larger the hole, the more defined the curve, and the more difficult it becomes to get a watertight seal between the connector and the hole around the perimeter of the rubber seal.
For'plastic pipes, we strongly suggest using a rubber connector regardless of the conveyance system because mortar does not bond well to plastic, leading to leaks through the connection from the get-go. Additionally, plastic pipe is flexible. A typical soil load on most types of plastic will cause the pipe to deflect even just slightly. Rigid mortar cannot accommodate this type of dimensional change, thus increasing the likelihood of a leaking connection. Resilient rubber connectors are by far the best way to seal a plastic pipe to concrete structure connection. Just make note that if you use corrugated plastic pipe on your job site, you will also need a sleeve to go over the corrugated surface and convert it to a smooth surface within the connector. Consider this sleeve when ordering your manholes so the correct outside diameter can be used for installation of the proper connector at the precast plant.
Prepare the pipe: Depending on the connector type, this could mean beveling the end of the pipe, de-burring the pipe to knock off any sharp edges that could tear the rubber, and/or lubricating the connector and the pipe. Use care when preparing and installing the pipe. This is important, especially with cast-in connections. Jagged edges could ultimately tear the connector that is embedded into the concrete, and the only viable solution would be to cut out the connector, core a larger hole and then find a new mechanical connector that will fit both the hole and the pipe. The other, less-effective option would be to mortar the pipe into the new hole.
Pipe alignment: Make sure that your pipe is aligned with your connector before insertion. We occasionally hear of a contractor who has installed their pipeline out of alignment with the manhole. Sometimes the alignment is not severe, so they are able to deflect the connector slightly and make it work. ASTM C923 states that connectors must be capable of holding 10 psi of water pressure when deflected 7 degrees in order to meet this standard, so deflection to this amount is likely going to be acceptable. But, if the alignment is going to be more severe, they might be required to core a new or a bigger hole in the manhole and then try to use a mechanical connector to seal the connection. Contractors should be careful to maintain a precise direction of the pipeline to avoid these field repairs.
Prevent differential loading and settlement: There are instances where varying loads can be applied to the top of the pipe or the manhole due to construction equipment or vehicular traffic. If the base has not been prepared properly beneath the manhole and pipes entering into it, then this loading could result in the displacement of the pipe in relation to the hole and connector. A resilient rubber connector will allow for pipe movement up to 7 degrees to meet ASTM C923 requirements.
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